Amaranto in Bushwick Is a Family Effort (Published 2015)
At Amaranto in Bushwick, Brooklyn, the tamale arrives bare, shorn of its corn-husk wrap and half-submerged in chilpachole, a reddish-gold crab broth tasting of sea floor and muddy burrows, as if siphoned from the Gulf of Mexico. Mussels gawk from the bowl, mouths full of chorizo, cut in hunks like …